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A pet rabbit needs a rabbit companion, a living space much bigger than a hutch, a diet that is mostly hay, and a vet visit every year. The RSPCA says a rabbit “can typically live for 8 to 12 years,” so the decision to get one covers a long stretch of your life. This guide goes through what to know first: whether rabbits are good pets, what care costs in time and money, space, company, food, spaying and neutering, vet care, children, other pets, allergies, and where to find a rabbit.
They can be. The RSPCA says rabbits “can make great companions. They can be clean, intelligent, gentle, affectionate, can use litter trays and even be trained to respond to simple cues.” The same page adds that “they’re also a big commitment, requiring high-quality care, routine vet visits and constant attention.”
The House Rabbit Society lists litter box training and individual personalities among the reasons rabbits fit a home. It says they “can be trained to use a litter box with great reliability.” Our guide on how to potty train a rabbit covers the steps.
Rabbits need daily care, and the costs add up. The RSPCA lists medical care (routine and emergency), housing, enrichment, equipment, food, and holiday care, which means someone has to look after your rabbits while you are away, and you might need to pay them. It adds that because rabbits should be kept in pairs at least, “this can double the expense.”

The RSPCA says a rabbit’s toilet areas need cleaning every day and the whole enclosure about once a week, and more often if it gets very soiled. For litter, it lists newspaper, hay or straw, shredded paper, and paper-based, non-clumping, non-expanding cat litter. It says you can put a hay rack over the litter tray so the rabbit can eat while it uses the tray.
Rabbits chew, so the RSPCA’s rabbit-proofing list starts with covering or removing electrical wires and moving indoor plants out of reach. Rabbits also need things to chew and play with. The RSPCA says they need enrichment items like toys to play with or chew on, and the PDSA names tunnels, boxes, and balls. There are cheap DIY rabbit toys you can make at home.
For grooming, the Merck Veterinary Manual says to brush rabbits and remove loose fur, with long-haired rabbits needing the same. It says nails should be trimmed every 1 to 2 months or as needed.
The RSPCA says a rabbit that lives in a safe and stimulating environment, with a nutritious diet, regular health checks, and appropriate companionship, “can typically live for 8 to 12 years” and adds that “some may live longer.” It calls a pet rabbit “a long term commitment, as much as any pet cat or dog might be.” Our page on how long pet rabbits live covers what changes the number: pet rabbit lifespan.
Two. The RSPCA says “one rabbit needs another rabbit (at least), unless you’re advised otherwise by a vet or qualified animal behaviourist.” The PDSA says rabbits are very sociable, so “it’s essential that they live in neutered pairs or groups.”

The RSPCA calls a neutered male and a neutered female a good combination, “as neutering reduces the likelihood of fighting in both sexes.” The House Rabbit Society says an unaltered rabbit cannot safely bond with another rabbit. When you adopt from an RSPCA rescue centre, it says the bonding, sexing, and neutering are already done.
The RSPCA says “a living space for two medium-sized rabbits should be no smaller than 3m x 2m x 1m, including their main shelter and exercise area.” The PDSA gives the same figure as 10ft x 6ft x 3ft and calls it the absolute minimum for a pair, but recommends providing much more than that.

A hutch alone does not reach it. The RSPCA says “hutches on their own are not large enough to be able to meet your rabbit’s needs.” The PDSA says the space should let rabbits run around, lie down and fully stretch out, and stand up on their back legs without their ears touching the top.
Mostly hay. The RSPCA’s guide is “mostly of fresh hay and grass (85%), with some leafy greens (10%) and a few pellets or nuggets (5%).” It says rabbits should always have unlimited access to good-quality hay or grass and fresh water.
Carrots are a treat. The RSPCA says “despite popular belief, carrots aren’t the main source of food for rabbits.” The House Rabbit Society says all fruits are treats because of their high sugar content, carrots included, and puts them at a very small amount once or twice per week. It lists chocolate, cookies, crackers, breakfast cereals, bread, pasta, and yogurt drops among processed human foods that are especially dangerous for rabbits. Our page on what rabbits can eat has the full list of safe foods and foods to avoid.
Yes, and the sources give health reasons as well as the behavior ones. The Merck Veterinary Manual says spaying a female “prevents unwanted litters and eliminates the risk of cancer of the uterus, which is common and often fatal in rabbits over 3 years old.” The RSPCA says unneutered female rabbits are at a high risk of developing tumours. The House Rabbit Society says “altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits.”
Neutering also changes how a rabbit lives with you. The House Rabbit Society says altered rabbits are “calmer, more loving, and more dependable once the urge to mate has been removed,” and that spaying and neutering improve litter box habits. Spaying or neutering a rabbit can eliminate its desire to mate.
Accidental litters are the other reason. The RSPCA says two rabbits could multiply to 82 rabbits in one year, and that rescue centres across the UK are inundated with litters. On timing, the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund says “it is best to neuter both sexes as early as possible, ideally by 6 months of age.” The RSPCA notes that male rabbits can take up to six weeks to become sterile after neutering. The House Rabbit Society says to never let a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits operate on yours.
Yes, every year. The Merck Veterinary Manual says rabbits “should have a veterinary exam when they are first obtained and then once a year after that.” The RSPCA says the same: “take your rabbits to the vet at least annually, for check-ups, vaccinations and parasite treatments.” Its reason is that “as prey animals, rabbits may hide signs of pain or illness.”
For vaccines, the Merck manual says the one routine vaccine it recommends for pet rabbits is the one against rabbit hemorrhagic disease caused by RHDV-2. The usual schedule is two doses given 3 weeks apart, followed by yearly boosters. The RSPCA is a UK charity and lists vaccines against myxomatosis and two forms of viral haemorrhagic disease. It says “your vet will advise how often your rabbits should be vaccinated.”
The RSPCA says rabbits are “better suited for older children who are able to handle them gently and understand the full scope of their responsibility, supported by adults who are prepared to help and take over when needed.” It calls them “fragile creatures who can be easily injured” and says that “as prey animals, they prefer not to be picked up.” The House Rabbit Society says rabbits often aren’t the best match for very young children under the age of 7.
The House Rabbit Society says a good relationship between children and rabbits is possible “with patience, education, and supervision.”
A rabbit is a prey animal, and the RSPCA says it needs to be able to hide “away from the sight and smell of predators such as foxes, cats and dogs, or other things that may scare them.” It recommends housing in a quiet, calm part of the home, away from the threat of cats and dogs. It also says to give rabbits constant access to safe hiding places, with “as many hiding places as there are rabbits, with one extra, if possible.”

The RSPCA says cardboard boxes and tunnels are ideal, and that a hiding place needs more than one opening to help the rabbits feel safe. For other small animals, it says rabbits and guinea pigs or rats shouldn’t be kept together, because they have different needs and often prefer the company of their own species. If you keep chickens as well, our page on whether rabbits and chickens can live together has the details.
People can be allergic to rabbits. A case report of three patients describes asthma or rhinitis from rabbits kept in the home. The House Rabbit Society says that if any of your family has allergies, you should have testing done to see if there is an allergy to rabbits or hay before you get a rabbit.
The House Rabbit Society says it is hard to make broad statements about breeds, because rabbits are unique individuals. For families with children, it says medium to large adult rabbits often make a suitable choice because of their size, and that dwarf breeds may be more energetic and assertive. The RSPCA says some lops and dwarf or mini breeds may be at increased risk of dental problems, and that annual trips to the vet help catch signs of dental disease early. It also says giant breeds and Rex rabbits are more prone to sore feet and hocks.
Start with a local animal shelter or rescue group. The RSPCA says “we’ll always encourage rescuing rabbits over buying them,” and that many rescue rabbits are already paired with a companion, neutered, microchipped, and vaccinated. The House Rabbit Society says adopting from a rescue organization or shelter helps reduce rabbit overpopulation.

To learn more about caring for rabbits, check out the House Rabbit Society website.
They can. The House Rabbit Society says rabbits show discomfort or fear by kicking or even nipping when they feel threatened. The RSPCA says to move slowly and talk quietly around rabbits so as not to startle them. For a rabbit that bites or acts afraid, it says to ask a vet to rule out illness or injury.
The RSPCA says rabbits are active animals needing regular, frequent exercise, and ideally have 24/7 access to a large exercise area attached to their main shelter. The House Rabbit Society says a minimum of three to four hours of exercise outside the cage is essential each day.
Most prefer not to be. The RSPCA says rabbits prefer not to be picked up. It says never to pick a rabbit up by its ears or scruff and never to hold one on its back, which can cause tonic immobility, an involuntary fear response. For a rabbit that does need lifting, it says to place one hand under the chest and front legs and use the other to support the bottom.
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